Draped in elegance and deeply rooted in history, Vietnam’s traditional dress, the ao dai, represents the nation’s complex history. From Hanoi to Hue, Hoi An to Saigon, men, women, and children can be seen wearing ao dai in an array of colors and styles.
The French photographer Réhahn’s Ao Dai collection of Fine Art photographs celebrates Vietnam’s traditional dress as a quintessential part of the national identity.
Join us as we unravel the intricate folds of Vietnam’s traditional dress, exploring its historical origins, contemporary interpretations, and enduring significance in Vietnamese society.
What is the traditional dress in Vietnam?
Vietnam’s traditional dress typically consists of a long tunic over silk or cotton pants. With its high slits up the sides and loose pants, the ao dai offers both elegance and ease of movement.
The term Ao dai translates literally into long shirt, but this simplistic translation doesn’t do justice to the symbolism of the traditional garment. The high collar on the tunic represents modesty, while the tunic that is split on the sides symbolizes freedom.
Vietnam’s traditional dress is always worn over loose pants, making it modern, practical, and timeless.
Ao dai can be made out of many types of fabric, from silk and brocade to organic cotton and synthetics. The fabric choice is based on the occasion and the person’s budget.
For the Lunar New Year, many Vietnamese will choose the most luxurious fabric they can afford for the festivities. While cotton or a more hardy material would be chosen for everyday wear. Ao dai for special occasions are often embellished with beading or embroidered with cranes, dragons, and other significant motifs.
The Importance of Colors in Vietnamese Culture
In Vietnamese culture, colors serve as powerful conveyors of meaning and symbolism. While students often opt for simple white or blue ao dai for everyday wear, special occasions such as Tet Lunar New Year and weddings are marked by a kaleidoscope of vibrant hues and decorative elements.
Red symbolizes luck and prosperity, making it a popular color for festivities. White signifies purity and innocence, commonly seen in student uniforms, while yellow, once reserved for royalty, now symbolizes power and happiness. Even black, traditionally associated with mourning, has evolved to include modern variations suitable for formal events.
What are the Historical Origins of Vietnam’s traditional dress?
Many people liken the style of the ao dai to the well-known Chinese traditional dress, the cheongsam. Yet, the cheongsam only came into popularity amongst Shanghai socialites in the 1920s and 1930s. Whereas, the Vietnamese have worn ao dai since the reign of the Nguyen Dynasty, which dates back to 1744.
During this era, Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat, also known as Lord Vu Vuong, ordered a new style of clothing to be designed. It featured pants worn under a long gown for both men and women.
The Cham ethnic group, who occupied the conquered Kingdom of Champa in Central Vietnam, inspired the style. The new garments were a way to show respect to the Cham and win over their support.
In the late 19th-century, during the era of French occupation, Vietnam’s traditional dress underwent further transformation, blending Eastern and Western influence. The original ao dai was longer and made out of a flowing fabric that hung away from the body. French tailors tightened the form of the bodice and streamlined the neckline, so that the tunic hugged the body. The loose pants, however, remained an essential part of the garment.
Evolution of the Ao Dai
While the female version of Vietnam’s national dress has evolved over the years with ornate touches and shifting silhouettes the male version has remained relatively unchanged.
In the 1970s, after the reunification of North and South Vietnam, the ao dai gained in popularity as a symbol of the country’s resistance and identity.
Vietnam’s national dress also grew in popularity across the world, due to the large diaspora that set down roots after the conflict.
The late 1980s and early 1990s saw the emergence of beauty pageants within Vietnamese communities, where the ao dai became a central facet of cultural expression. Showcasing the enduring significance of the traditional dress in preserving Vietnamese identity.
Vietnamese people continue to connect with their cultural heritage no matter where they currently live. From mothers to daughters, grandfathers, and grandsons, the ao dai embodies the resilience and strength of Vietnamese women, carrying with it the stories and memories of generations past.
Do the Vietnamese still wear their traditional dress?
In modern times, Vietnam’s traditional dress continues to transcend borders and generations, symbolizing continuity and change.
In Vietnam’s bustling metropolises such as Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, ao dai can still be seen, although they are not as prevalent as in smaller towns. They are frequently donned by working professional women in the tourism sector and by students.
In Hoi An, students wear Vietnam’s national dress almost every day.
In the mornings, one can witness waves of women dressed in white flooding the streets. They perch atop bicycles as they ride to their next class or sit on low stools curved over breakfast bowls of pho. They throw the long ends of their tunics over their knees to avoid trailing the pristine fabric in the dirt.
When tourists visit the city, it might seem like the ao dai has always been a part of Vietnamese culture and that it always will be. Yet, Vietnam’s traditional dress is being worn less and less as development increases in the country. Making it all the more important to continue to learn about and celebrate the beauty and origins of Vietnam’s ao dai.
Does Vietnam have other traditional dresses?
Réhahn has traveled to the most remote corners of Vietnam to discover all of the traditional garments of the country’s ethnic groups.
Visitors to The Precious Heritage Museum in Hoi An can see the vibrant attire of the country’s 54 ethnic groups, including the ao dai of the Kinh, commonly known as the Vietnamese.
The traditional garments of other ethnic groups vary widely. Some tribes, such as the Hmong or the Dao wear their beautifully dyed and embroidered textiles regularly. Other ethnic groups have completely abandoned their traditional attire in favor of inexpensive clothing made in China and western t-shirts.
Inside the Precious Heritage Museum
Vietnam’s Traditional Dress in Fine Art
Réhahn’s Ao Dai Collection pays homage to Vietnam’s national dress, capturing the essence of tradition merged with modernity. Each portrait celebrates the beauty and grace of the ao dai, transcending individuality to showcase the timeless elegance of Vietnamese culture.
Through Réhahn’s lens, Vietnam’s traditional dress becomes a symbol of resilience, strength, and cultural heritage. These fine art portraits offer a glimpse into the soul of Vietnam, where tradition and modernity coexist.
The eyes of the women posed in these fine art portraits are often hidden behind their hats as they go about their daily lives. The portraits become less about the individual beauty of the woman and more about the details. The lines of their ao dai are fluid in contrast to the geometric shape of their non la hats.
From its humble origins to its modern interpretations, Vietnam’s national dress continues to captivate hearts and minds, serving as a symbol of cultural pride and national identity.
To understand the differences between ethnic groups, cultural traditions, and tradition garments in Vietnam, visit The Precious Heritage Museum in Hoi An, Vietnam. It is free to the public.
